Jacquardmuster

Colourwork

Fascinating and versatile, sometimes an impressive highlight of a design, sometimes a harmonious total work of art: colourwork. 

Colourwork

Multicoloured patterns can be achieved with a wide variety of techniques: from simple stripes and intarsia to exciting but easy-to-knit mosaic patterns. Another classic technique is stranded knitting. These colourwork patterns require a little more knitting experience and dexterity, but with a little practice, they are easy to master and open up a whole world of possibilities. 

What is colourwork knitting?  

Colourwork knitting, also known as stranded colourwork or Fair Isle, which actually only refers to the technique from the Shetland Islands, is found in numerous international knitting traditions with different characteristics and typical motifs, ranging from geometric patterns to actual images. Modern motifs are also inspiring more and more knitters and have brought colourwork knitting back into focus.
 
Regardless of what the knitted patterns and motifs look like, the principle is always the same: it is based on a counting pattern alternating stitches in two or more colours in the same row or round. The colour that you do not knit with is carried along on the back of the knitted piece. These are the so-called floats.  
This way, a pattern is created row by row and round by round.  

What do I need to bear in mind when knitting colourwork?

Choosing your colours

Even before you start knitting, your choice of colours will have a major impact on the final result. Choose contrasting shades so that the pattern is clearly visible and really stands out.  

On our colour cards, the tones are arranged in such a way that they show particularly harmonious colour combinations at first glance. This allows you to play with the colours and combinations, get inspired, and easily find the colours that suit you best. 

If you are unsure whether the contrast is sufficient, let your smartphone help you with this little trick: place both yarns next to each other and take a photo – with a black and white setting. You can either set this on your camera or convert the image afterwards in your gallery. Can you easily distinguish between the two colours in the black and white picture? If so, your colour choice is suitable for colourwork. However, if you can hardly tell the grey tones apart, you should reconsider your choice. 

Knitting technique, float tension and more 

Unfortunately, there is no one true technique for colourwork knitting. You can find countless tutorials on YouTube, in knitting books and online, showing you different ways to hold your yarn, manage tension and more. Once you have had a look, it's time to try it out and practise. With patience and a desire to learn something new, you will eventually find the technique that works best for you. Just enjoy the process and don't be discouraged if it doesn't turn out perfectly the first time around.  Regardless of how precisely you hold your yarn, float tension is one of the most important factorswhen knitting colourwork. The floats running along the back must neither be too tight nor too loose. If they are too tight, i.e. too short, the fabric will contract and may even pucker. If, on the other hand, they are too loose, your stitches will be too large at the beginning and end of the colour section, and unsightly loops will form on the back of the fabric.   In addition, especially with longer colour sections, you should trap the floats of the other colour at regular intervals to prevent long strands you could catch on when putting on your garment or taking it off. The exact interval at which you trap the floats depends a little on your individual preferences. In general, it is recommended to catch the floats approximately every 4-5 stitches.

Colour dominance 

When knitting colourwork, there is usually a main colour and a contrasting colour. The main colour forms the background, while the motif is knitted with the contrasting colour. Since the motif is the highlight of the design, it should stand out, both in terms of colour and texture. The stitches in the contrasting colour are then slightly larger and more raised in the knitted fabric. You can achieve this by how you strand the yarn. When knitting with two colours, the colour that is not currently in use runs along the back as a float. When changing colours, the yarn always runs either above or below the other. If it is stranded above the other, it goes directly into the new stitch. However, if it is stranded below, it takes a small ‘detour’ to the next stitch and thus requires more yarn. This additional small piece of yarn ensures that the previous and following stitches in this colour become slightly larger – the motif stands out more, the colour is dominant.  
 
To ensure that this effect is uniform and your colourwork looks harmonious, it is important to keep your stranding consistent throughout the whole colourwork section. 

You can also find beautiful colourwork designs in our collections, for example the Calma sweater with its gorgeous yoke. The Pidu hat is a great little project for getting started with stranded knitting, while the chevron pattern on the Sereno sweater, with its short, regular colour changes, is easy to knit and has a great look. The geometric pattern of the Harbour Lights cardigan creates an exciting transition between the two colourblocking shades, and is great for more experienced colourwork enthusiasts, resulting in a piece of knitwear you can be really proud of.